Gasoline engine kaputt

Halo, I have really appreciated all of the help that I have recieved from this forum. I was able to get my 1964 2.4 ltr Borgward b2000 A/O running and driving. ..... Until just recently. After examination with a borescope it shows some problem with the #1 cylinder and that piston is not moving up and down as it should. I think that I have broken a rod. I am in the process of removing the motor and will get to inspect it soon. I live in the United States and unfortunatly there are not an abundance of replacement motors or parts. My question is what engine swaps have been done and which engine might I find in the US to get my Borgi running again?

Greetings. The engine has been removed and placed in my truck. Ill take it to my shop on tuesday PM and start the tear down. I will take pictures for the post and hope to have a prognosis soon.

Instandsetzer2--I contacted your friends and he has a bare block we will see if I need to go that route. Thanks.

Being the cosumate pessimist I am wondering what other engines have been fit into the b2000 frame in the event that I need to engine swap? Mine is still 24volt and I would like to keep it that way. I don't know if I could swap in a Cummins 4bt. Maybe? Any recommendations will be appreciated and pray that my engine can be rebuilt at a reasonable cost. Parts from Germany will be pricey and I think they will have a stiff tarriff.

Peter-- Thanks for your help as always.

Good evening from Colorado USA. After removal of the Borgward engine's oil pan it became evident that the number one cylinder has suffered catasrophic damage. It appears that the rod was initially bent as a result of hydro-lock and the rod bolt gave up causing the piston to drop further into the cylinder than designed for. The bottom of the piston sheared off at above the piston pin and the piston broke the skirt of the cylinder, wedging itself between the block and the crank. That is why the bore scope was able to go into the crank case from the spark plug hole. The engine block is damaged beyond repair. The crank looks as it suffered some damage but it is irrelevant as the block is not salvagable. I am looking at an engine swap and the best candidate at this point is either a Ford 300 I6 (gas) or a OM 617 (diesel)

Hi Peter,

It has damaged the lower skirt of the cylinder and broken about 1/2 of the lower cylinder wall. In my experience this is serious damage which might be fixed with cylinder liners which would be an expensive proposition.I intend to tear down the engine and see the full extent of the damage and will concider sleeving the engine. I am also going to explore the swap option as being in the USA that will be easy to source parts and installation. Additionally I am familiar with the Ford 300 I6. (I am measuring to see if it will fit the space and how much fabrication will be necessary).

The Ford 300 I6 is a Highly reliable, durable, and torque-rich inline-six engine produced from 1965 to 1996, known for its "bulletproof" reputation in workhorse applications like F-Series trucks , Broncos , and E-Series vans . While not a high-performance engine for speed, its dependable, low-end torque made it excellent for heavy loads and towing .

The block is a little longer and the associated transmission is shorter. I might make it work we will have to see at what cost and expense.

Thanks Peter. I will be cautious with the torque on the 300. It will be backed be a T18 4-speed transmission with a granny gear 6.32:1. I have lloed at the options and all of the current motors are mostly v8's or v6's and 4 cylinder turbo charged. They have a lot of computers in them and I'm going to keep it simple. 120 hp at 3,000 RPM and approximately 240 lb-ft of torque. I have thought about the differance in the torque and it is equal to 325 Nm of torque. My worry is the transfere case and the axles. Do you have any ratings on those? I am running the Unimog 10/10.5 x 20 military nondirectional tires and that will add strain to the drive shafts axles and gearing.

Despite my best efforts the Ford 300/4.9L inline 6 engine will not fit. The distributor is too wide to go in between the foot wells. As a consequence I have opted for the Ford 250/4.1L inline 6. A much smaller motor and the distributor is in the front of the motor. I will pair this with the Borg-Warner T18-1E transmission. The whole package will be moved rearward about 4" from stock. The 250 has 87 hp (65kW) @3200 rpm (SAE net) and 174lb-ft (236Nm)of torque @ 2,000rpm. These numbers are more in line with the original motor. The Transmission is as follows; 1st gear--6.32 : 1, 2nd gear--3.09 : 1, 3rd gear--1.69; 1, 4th gear--1 :1, R 7.44 : 1. I think the rear/front differential is 3.73:1 or 41:11. This wont be a speed demon but will be a fun ride. It has 10.5/ 20 Unimog tires and wheels.

Thank you Peter. When the original motor ran I was able to drive a bit. The 10.5 x 20 tire did not rub in any places. My assesment of the block is that it might be able to be sleved but that would be an expense I can't afford. I am going to swap in the Ford 250 i6 and a Borg-Warner T18-1E transmission. I have the original motor and Trans if someone might want it. Shipping will be very expensive though. Just throwing this out there.

The Ford in line 6 4.1L/250cid with the T 18–1 E will fit. The motor needed to go back approx 1.5" and necessitated the firewall be reconfigured. The width is about .5" wider than the sheet metal for the transmission cover that will be the only issue and will need some fabrication work. The Mount towers were moved 3.5" back to keep the original radiator in the original location. All in all a good fit without much modification. The transmission brackets were removed and the frame will be boxed to add strenght. There is a 24 volt starter avaliable (Ford small block 164 tooth ring gear) for this (made by Grease junkie in the UK) and the Distributor will be converted to 24 v. Clearances are good and Being in the USA will make parts and maintance easier. Original generator will be used with a mounting plate and bracket.Motor rebuild is next.

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